BERYNA - 2004 v. 2003

I just received a case of 2004 Beryna and immediately opened a bottle along with one of my remaining bottles of the 2003. It seems that the value this wine offers has made it among the most frequent discussion topics on the Verema.com. (At the bodega price of 5.09 €, it is a complete mystery to me why everyone in Spain is not renting a truck and driving to Alicante.) In comparing the two vintages glass by glass, my overall impression certainly is that they are very similar wines. The color is nearly identical, with the 2003 having a slightly lighter rim. A difference in the oak is detectable. I believe that the 2003 has some combination of French, American and Russian oak, creating a complex spicy oak profile whereas it appears that the 2004 relies on French oak alone and the wood profile is less articulated. The reported coupage for the 2004 is 60% Monastrell, and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah, Merlot and tempranillo. More specific information was available for non-Monestrell components of the 2003: 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 5% Merlot and 5% Tempranillo. I don’t sense a materially different balance in the 2004 - perhaps more Tempranillo and Cabernet. The 2004 is a less boisterous wine than 2003 and, even though slightly more concentrated, is somewhat more focused and harmonious. The 2004 also has more earthy and animal notes and, not surprisingly, has tannins that at the moment are more pronounced, but also finer and sweeter, than the 2003.