Stealth corked wines: an even worse problem?

David Schildknecht writes a very interesting comment on what he calls ’stealth cork’ in the J. Robinson website (http://www.jancisrobinson.com/jr850.htm). Says D.S.:

";there is an even worse problem than overtly corky bottles, and that is what I call ’stealth cork’. EVERY TIME I come to a bottle that seems mute in the nose, inexpressive in the finish, or just in any way not up to the standards typically established at the estate in question (and usually confirmed by other bottles from that same vintage standing open on the winemaker’s tasting bench at the same moment) I SUSPECT cork. So, I do some shaking of the wine and a little waiting for any possible taint to ’blossom’ with airation - as it will - and in MOST instances TCA proves to be the culprit. But in such cases, few wine enthusiasts let alone casual consumers would have come to this conclusion. They will simply consider their experience a reflection on the quality of the wine and buy something else (or from a different vintner) the next time. Only obviously corky bottles are routinely ascribed to bad corks. Very many times I have found the grower him- or herself just as uncertain as I am at first blush whether or not a wine is afflicted.";

I agree with Schildknecht in that ’stealth cork’ bottles are a much worst problem than clearly corked wines. In the Verema.com blind tastings we have found wines with inexpressive noses or taste and when doubts have arisen a second bottle has been opened and invariably we have found a different, better wine. As D.S. says, few wine consumers would have had this second opportunity...