This wine offers rather mature aromas of plum and cherry, with oak

This wine offers rather mature aromas of plum and cherry, with oak elements only faintly contributing in the form of toast. The attack is unusually smooth and creamy, but the fruit grows more intense and finishes strongly. The wine has some elegance and its creamy mouthfeel and very soft tannins are physically enticing. Something about these textural elements, which seem ideally suited to the delectation of very complex elements, somehow suggests a wine a great subtlety. But in fact that is not what the wine delivers. What it does deliver is adequate and balanced, but not profound. Nevertheless, for $17 the ’98 Calzadilla is a fine value, and its mature personality certainly is not typical of wines in this price range.