Ungrafted vines... I read in a recent article in the Revue de Vins de France that a number of producers were going after pre-phyloxera tastes and Marionnet was one of them. This Gamay declares 11.5% alcohol, and yet manages admirable intensity. Aromas of loam and wet stones, iron filings, China ink, cocoa, blackberry and blackcurrant. Complex on the palate, layered and quite provocative, with expansive minerality and lush fruit. My only complaint is that at the end, the fruit displays an odd, almost cloying, candied aspect I’m not quite ready to enjoy.