TN: Bulgarian hospitality

TN: Bulgarian hospitality 23 Jan 2004

“The problem with Western societies, and increasingly the Eastern European societies, is that neo-consumerism is the new religion. People are borrowing like mad to spend freely and kneel at the alter of short term happiness. The fabric of society is steadily being stripped away, and moral values are being diluted away by drugs, pornography and or course alcohol. Would you like another drink?” My head was already feeling a little ‘light’, but I knew that it would be rude to decline another shot of vodka. Rossitza (pronounced “Rozeetsa”) picked up the quarter full bottle of Russian vodka and poured me a full measure. Her husband Vladimir watched me as I gripped the cool glass with my right hand, steadied it for a second, then passed it relatively slowly to my lips and took a sip. They both smiled and I put it down carefully.

I had been eating and drinking at a steady pace for the last five hours. This was not unusual for my visits here. I had known Rossitza and Vladimir for several years now and enjoyed many memorable occasions of Bulgarian hospitality at their place. I know they like nice wine, so I always try and bring something different and enjoyable that I know they can’t readily get hold of. They know I like good food, and I always leave their place with my trousers bursting at the seams. Every dish is memorable and this time was no exception. Even the chocolate cheesecake and fine Italian coffee went down a treat. As the evening progressed, and the wine and alcohol had flowed, the topics of discussion had become increasingly more controversial. Needless to say, by the end of the evening, it’s often easier to agree than disagree with them.

I had tried many nice wines with them, including rare Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignons. One from the 1990 vintage drunk a couple of years in particular was surprisingly soft and drinkable, though I did not make a note of the producers name at the time. This night I wanted to try two quite different wines from my cellar with them, to get their reaction. It was interesting as Rossitza preferred the second wine and Vladimir liked the first one more. Moi? I liked them both.

1) 2000 Domaine de Marcoux (Chateauneuf du Pape, S.Rhone, France)
No decanting, we just poured this 14.5% wine into our large glasses. A very dark strawberry red. The nose was initially gamey with nuances of saddle leather. The palate was tight, showing fresh cherry, cleaner than the nose with the ripe tannins providing a good structure for the excellent finish. Surprisingly easy to drink now. 91/100.

2) 1999 Poderi Luigi Einuadi – I Filari – Dolcetto di Dogliani (Italy)
No decanting, and again this 14.5% wine was poured straight into our stemware. Opaque cherry red, the nose is an interesting mix of dry earth, cassis and dry cherries with a hint of chestnut. The slightly sweet entry to my tongue then followed with a powerful and reasonably acidic and tongue tingling bitter cherry palate that persisted admirably. Concentrated (this is the top cuvee Dolcetto of this producer) and young, this wine is still developing but can happily be drunk now with food. 92/100.

It was 11.30pm on a Friday evening and I knew I had to make a move to catch one of the last Tube’s home. As we said our goodbyes as good friends do, I reflected on the pleasure that I had enjoyed, and it made the journey home that much smoother and quicker.